The Living Goddess

After spending Tuesday touring three of the temples of Kathmandu with our knowledgeable guide and teacher Urmila, she decided we were ready to go out and tackle the city on our own. Because of time constraints, Urmila instructed us to head out early Wednesday morning to our fourth and final destination in Kathmandu, Hanumandhoka Durbar Square. With some vague directions and a map, we headed out in the morning, hoping that the lack of street signs would not deter us. By some miracle, we made it to the square without getting lost, and it was definitely worth the trek!

Hanumandhoka Durbar Square

One of the most interesting sites in the square was Kumari ghar, or the home of Kumari. Kumari is a living Hindu goddess. She is believed to be an incarnation of the goddess Taleju. The name Kumari, means "virgin." She is chosen in a similar way to the Dalai Lama, in that when it is time to choose a new Kumari, the Hindu priests go out in search of a young girl who fits certain criteria. She must be from a Buddhist family, born under a full moon, and possess 32 specific physical characteristics. They gather all the girls who fit these criteria and bring them to a dark room where they are left overnight. The girl who does not cry is the next Kumari. She is taken to live with a priest family in Kumari ghar, where she is only allowed to leave 13 times a year for various ceremonies and celebrations. She is fiercely protected, as she only remains Kumari until she loses blood, whether that is from a cut or scrape, or more likely menstruation. Once she's had her period, she is no longer Kumari, and she goes back to live a "normal life" with her family, and the next Kumari is chosen.

Shrine in the middle of the courtyard in Kumari Ghar. If you are lucky you may catch a glimpse of Kumari looking out the window.

Mo and Pavani in Durbar Square

Marigolds

 

After visiting the square, we headed back to our hotel. Of course we stopped at our favorite Nepali coffee shop, Himalayan Java for a cafe au lait and croissant!

The rest of the afternoon was spent in Nepali language lessons with our patient teacher Urmila.  In three hours, she gave us, what I can only believe, was the best crash course in Nepali ever taught. We have a lot of studying to do, but hopefully we will make her proud. For now, all I can remember is malaai bhok laagyo, which means I am hungry!

Now we're off to meet our host family. Until next time.

Namaste.